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When compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned high-end names. However, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble shop earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.